Tel: +39 06 4469 630
Address: Via Cernaia, 37b
Cuisine Type: Modern Italian
Closed: Sunday (except in December), two weeks in August
Tables outside? No

Trimani in Via Goito has been selling a vast range of wines in its spacious enoteca since 1821 – but the wine bar just round the corner is ultra-modern with clean lines, pale wood and sophisticated modern Italian cooking. A good place for a business lunch, as was demonstrated by the almost exclusively Italian – and mostly male – clientele, looking prosperous and as serious about their food and wine as their business dealings.

The menu is small but tempting. The piatti del giorno were a couple of seasonal soups and two varieties of gnocchi (€7.40) including one with beetroot, which sounded fascinating. However the specialita (€7.80 – €9.50) won the day, quiche con zucca e salsiccia proving irresistible. I’d been seeing gorgeous pumpkins on display outside restaurants all week and it was time to sample some. Other options included trittico di crostini ai formaggi blu con miele di castagno – another autumnal offering demonstrating not only imagination but good use of seasonal produce. Oyster lovers can also indulge here – small ones are €14.50 for six, their larger cousins €30.

No pasta dishes on offer, as this isn’t really the place for a full-blown meal. Instead you can pick and mix courses, with interesting choices of salami and cheese to make a perfect bistro-style meal.

There’s a good range of meat and fish secondi, however, and my (Italian male) companions had no hesitation in going straight for the filetto di manzo – fillet steak – which comes in either 200g or 300g portions (€15.60 and €19.80 respectively) and was very, very tender.

Dolci (€5.50 – €7.80) are as imaginative and seasonal as the specialities. I tried plum cake (sic) con salsa al cioccolato It always amuses me to see this supposed English dish in Italy – it’s a bit like the Americans eating English muffins, that don’t exist in the UK. Anyway it was good if a bit bland. Marroni sotto sciroppo con panna e meringhe (chestnuts with cream and meringues) were gorgeous, and the plate of assorted biscotti was fabulous, with all the flavours one could imagine.

The wine list, as one would expect, is vast and interesting and covers countries other than Italy. The price range is very reasonable – starting at about €13 – and the Chianti Classico we tried (“white wine is for girls”, I was told) was exceptionally smooth. A French Sauternes I found disappointing, and wished my companions had chosen one of the many superb Italian sweet wines rather than (I suspect) going for the snob value of the French. There are around 30 wines available by the glass.

This is not an area generally frequented by visitors to Rome but a visit to Trimani – the enoteca as well as the wine bar – could make it worth a detour.