Iguacu

Tel: +44 (0)20 7381 2372
Address: 486 Fulham Broadway, London, SW6 5NH
Cuisine Type: modern European
nearest tube station Fulham Broadway (DISTRICT)

Coaxed by my companion into Iguacu, one of the few restaurants on the Fulham Broadway I’d not yet managed to visit, I wondered why I’d not been in as I read the menu and decided that maybe I’d held back unnecessarily. A small but seemingly perfectly formed selection of modern European cuisine begged to be bought, so in we went to discover the place. Open for breakfast and lunch as well as evening entertainment, the restaurant is tardis-like, giving the appearance of a shoe shop from the front but opening out into a well-nigh cavernous excess of space at the rear, allowing a two-piece suite and coffee table to take over a whole corner and a central openair hole to act as a kind of outdoor storeroom. The doors to this kept opening and the curious electrical knobs on the wall by it were so curious that we simply had to turn them to see what they controlled – alas nothing happened (that we were aware of).

A pleasant and moderately priced wine list offered up a smooth and flavoured South African pinotage for £15.95 which we hastily set about putting to good use with some warmed french bread slices dipped in chilli oil for entrees (£1.25). My companion opted for saffron & parmesan risotto (£4.95), which was on the restaurant’s table menu as well as the website menu. I wasn’t to be so lucky. I’d seen a parma ham complete with truffle oil, baby artichoke and cherry plum tomato salad on the website but it was nowhere to be found on the menu presented to us. Instead I went for a dish consisting of delicious goat’s cheese and roasted red peppers bizarrely and unfortunately combined with what tasted like freezer-fresh garlic bread straight from Safeway. It was edible, but only if you’d made it yourself. As I was about to begin a verbose and highly detailed moan concerning the texture of the blackened (ie. burned) bread, my companion announced that her saffron rice was overcooked.

Ominous signs then and main course was yet to be contemplated. What appeared to be a leg of lamb complete with hoof was served up to my startled companion, trimmed with a green mash with the consistency – and flavour! – of hard boiled mushy peas. My roasted sea bass fillet, with basil cream sauce (£11.95), was adequate if dry and chilly, topped with asparagus which was definitely not fresh and featuring two lumps of what tasted like scampi alongside. The plate was rather empty and, as my companion recovered from the shock of a main course that was more bone and fat than meat, we decided on an emergency side order of sauteed potatoes. These were fine and dandy but so hot that we almost burned our mouths, were it not for the extra-large jug of tap water that’d been laid on.

The website claimed to offer desserts such as orange scented rice pudding and banana fritters with pannacotta cream and frangelico sauce. The reality was cheescake or cheesecake or cheesecake. So we had cheesecake. Which was dry (except for the base, which was soggy). Neither of us finished these. Our coffees turned up in half-pint tumblers and were lukewarm. Enough was enough.

Iguacu occupies a prime location and is a cosy space to eat in during the winter months. But with the standard of restaurants around it, it will really need to sort its food out soon.

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