+44 (0)20 7596 3399
Address: 39 Grosvenor Square, W1K 2HP
Cuisine Type: Italian
roundel Med Kitchen Bond Street

Hotel restaurants are never as atmospheric as one would like, supplying elegance rather than character.  Avista, at the Millennium Hotel in Mayfair, is a supreme example: refined, comfortable, with the superb service you would expect in Grosvenor Square (though thankfully it’s not too over the top).  It’s just a bit too tastefully beige for me.

The food, though, takes some of the risks the designers didn’t dare to, and makes it worth the visit.   Italian chef Michele Granziera has a very sure hand and a talent for combining flavours.  My starter of burrata with mixed beetroot and an orange sauce (£11.50) was a flavour revelation, though the cheese was just a touch too cold. There’s also a showman at work here: fried calamari with tartar sauce (also £11.50) were presented in two cleverly propped ice-cream cone shapes, each containing baby squid, one black from its ink.  To suggest the sea-side?  Not sure, but I was told they were excellent.  There’s plenty of choice for carnivores too, angus beef carpaccio with crispy vegetables (£13.50) sounding good, as did smoked duck breast with pumpkin, celeriac and truffle mayonnaise (£10.00).

Pasta courses (sensibly priced as either a starter or a main course) are enticing.  I chose pumpkin gnocchi with smoked ricotta (£11 as a main course) partly because I was curious to see how it would compare with a sublime version I had in Venice recently at Enoteca ai Artisti.  It was actually very similar – a rather smaller portion than in Venice but succulent, sweet and altogether delicious.  If I hadn’t been dining with work colleagues I might have tried the spaghetti with tomato sauce, basil and buffalo mozzarella (£9.50 / £12.50).  It takes a very confident cook to serve up such a simple dish in a Mayfair restaurant so I bet it’s good.

I didn’t have a main course but around me were very appreciative noises for pan-fried cod with chorizo, baby spinach and white wine sauce(£21.50) and pan-roasted sea bass fillet, baby lettuce, cherry tomatoes and lemon (£25.00).  I would probably have gone for braised pork cheek with whole grain mustard mash, gratinated swiss chard and red wine sauce (£19.00).

Puddings (£4.20-£7.70) are a mixed of reliable classics (apple tart with vanilla ice cream, very good), classics with a twist (cinnamon creme brûlée, ditto) and the fanciful (Caribbean hot chocolate foam, raspberries and ginger – very, very chocolaty and quite an eye-opener).

The wine list is as classy as would be expected in Mayfair, with a very good range of Italian wines in particular (not surprising) and although you can pay a lot, there’s a decent selection between £20 and £30.

The staff (and the kitchen) coped admirably with a group of nine people and were both discreet and helpful – not always the case in grand establishments.  So if you need to impress in a ‘safe’ environment but want to make sure your  tastebuds won’t suffer, you could do a lot worse than come to Avista.

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