Lunch at Locanda Cipriani is an experience to be savoured. On the tiny (and near deserted) island of Torcello, you can sip a Bellini on the terrace, look across to the 11th Century cathedral and stroke the house cats that know a good place when they find one.

The world could be thousands of miles away. It's expensive (especially if you take the private boat from San Marco - book when you make your table reservation) but worth every Lira.

Closed Tuesdays and January.

- Helen Wright, 7/2000