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Nestling at the back of the charming Campo San Stefano in Murano – the eponymous tower on one side, a canal, bridge and the imposing bulk of San Pietro Martire opposite – is a small building with a first story colonnade that looks as it it’s been there since Roman times.
It houses a great restaurant with a large, ebullient red-headed host, and serves some of the best food on the island. The tables spreading out over the Campo are a good place to spend a sunny lunchtime and indulge in a feast of fresh fish.
The huge spider crabs (granseola) make great antipasti. To follow, the fritto misto is particularly recommended, but there’s a huge variety of fish and shellfish to choose from. Meat dishes are less interesting: that old standby, cotoletta alla Milanese, was tasty but a little dry.
The home-made tiramisł makes up for all those awful approximations elsewhere (mostly outside Italy) – it’s wonderful. Service is good, friendly and efficient and the atmosphere and the setting make this a restaurant to return to. Medium price.
- Helen Wright, 4/2002
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