Just a stone's throw from the unbelievably noisy Piazza Venezia, on the ghetto side, is the unbelievably quiet Piazza Margana: a little triangle of peace surrounded by ivy-covered walls. Much of it is taken up by the outside tables of La Taverna degli Amici, contained within more leafiness, to make a perfect spot for lunch or dinner on a hot day (if it's really hot, the spacious interior is air-conditioned).

The short menu contains standards such as penne or bucatini all' Amatriciana and tonnarelli cacio e pepe, and there are also some interesting vegetarian options on offer. The tortina al carciofi was unfortunately off the day I was there but melanzane alla parmigiana, which can be rather a heavy, daunting dish, was light and delicious.

A mixed salad of peppery rughetta selvatica (wild rocket) with cherry tomatoes was perfect. There is a short wine list but you really don't need to look beyond the house wine - the red was soft and distinctly moreish and served in earthenware jugs. Mid-price.

- Helen Wright, 7/2002