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Hakkasan 020 7907 1888 Descending the dark stone stairs into Hakkasan's dimly-lit basement dining area made me feel as if I was in The Matrix. The striking décor (black furniture, black lattice partitions) and pervasive aura of calm are in stark contrast to the bright and rowdy restaurants of China Town, and more reminiscent of the overriding impression I got that The Matrix was shot in semi-darkness. The waiters are all glamorous; dressed in dark shirts and trousers, they fade in and out of focus silently with the ease and grace of computer-enhanced special effects. And, the place is just so trendy, you can't but feel like a movie star. But what of the food? The lunchtime dim sum menu is shorter than those of China Town but many of the old favourites are featured, transformed by use of original or unusual ingredients. Immaculately light triangles of flaky pastry are filled with venison rather than the traditional pork, whilst scallops add a decadent touch to fried prawn croquettes. Although prices are noticeably higher than China Town (starting from £3.20 per dish of dim sum), the quality of cooking and presentation almost justifies the premium. Plates of noodles and rice are reasonably priced; the hand-pulled noodles (£7.50) we sampled contained a generous addition of enoki and dried shiitake mushrooms, bean sprouts and fried egg. Desserts are decidedly un-Chinese, but are worth leaving room for. Chocolate and banana pudding with roast almond ice cream (£8.50) was fantastic - rich, gooey, a perfect contrast of hot and cold - in short, everything that your tastebuds want and your waistline doesn?t need. It is worth asking for a drinks menu, just to feel the furry cover, though we stuck with jasmine and ginseng tea from a selection available. And now I'm off to rent The Matrix out on video, just to relive the Hakkasan experience. - Tracy Yam, 2/2002 | |
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Tottenham Court Road (CENTRAL, NORTHERN)