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Pétrus
Pétrus Pétrus
Tel: +44 (0)20 7235 1200
Address: The Berkeley, Wilton Place, Knightsbridge, SW1X 7RL

Cuisine Type: Modern French
nearest tube station Knightsbridge

The doors to the restaurant open to reveal opulence: rich claret toned walls and seating harmonise with white tablecloths and soft lighting, designer David Collins having taken his inspiration from Château Pétrus. The circular patterns on and against the windows and doors mirror the enlarged abacuses which stand as the gateway to the room. The simplicity of tones bring a feeling of intimacy and warmth. The ambience that it creates has been clearly thought out - and then head chef/patron Marcus Wareing brings the menu and room together like a flawless matrimonial.

The menu listed a nice variety of dishes. Three courses from the a la carte menu are set at £60, while a tasting menu of eight courses is set at £80.

To start, I opted for the quail breast with baby carrots a la grècque and coriander shoots. The breast was very tender and cooked to perfection, but the flavour and appearance of the overall dish was unimpressionable and to a degree, quite bland. The carrots paired with the breast seemed almost too simple, not generating any level of excitement.

The £12 supplement for the Scottish lobster was worth every penny; accompanied by a single prawn raviolo, rested upon sauteed scallops and asparagus, with a shellfish velouté. It was a matchless combination. The richness of the velouté drew in the subtleties of the shellfish, while the variety of textures played off one another, leaving no room for boredom.

The dessert appeared so delicate and glorious that I was afraid to touch it. Almond pannacotta with vanilla poached pear and tonka bean ice cream was to die for. Three phases of meltdown into one moment of clarity - the ice cream led to the pannacotta, led to the pears. I have never had my breath taken away with such sweetness as I am not usually a dessert lover. In this case however, it was the highlight of the meal.

The service was impeccable. From arriving at 6:45pm to leaving at 11pm, not once did we feel the pressure of an overstayed welcome. It was the closest feeling I can attribute to royalty. The sommelier never faulted and complemented each course with the most perfect selection of wine, from their French range. Our waiter was both enchanting and knowledgeable. He was very attentive to every request or need, and provided excellent recommendations about various dishes on the menu; his personal favourite, the almond pannacotta.

Pétrus is not the cheapest night out (or selection of wine, for that matter) but it really is something extraordinary. For a special occasion, it wouldn't be anything other than memorable. The experience will be none other than luxurious.

- Olivia Andrews, 09/2006
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