Although the address is Whitechapel Road, Clifton is really a Brick Lane establishment, situated at the far end of London's best known concentration of Indian restaurants. Something tells me that the location is a mixed blessing - while Clifton has the scope to create its own reputation away from the plethora of restaurants on Brick Lane itself, where restaurants seems to be much of a muchness, it benefits less from the passing traffic of curry house devotees on their Brick Lane pilgrimage, who may not make it right down to the end.

Clifton's pedigree is also tied up with Brick Lane. Owner Shiraj Haque already has a couple of restaurants on the famous thoroughfare - Shampan and City Spice.

The décor is a melange of traditional and modern, the Indian and Bangladeshi art on the walls contrasts with the cafeteria-like feel of the plain tables and chairs, the attempt to dress them up with folded napkins and vases of carnations not quite masking the starkness.

Fortunately, the menu has sufficient appeal to compensate. Designed to cater for a wide audience, there are classic staples for those who never venture far from Tandoori Chicken or Chicken Tikka Masala, as well as a range of regional specialities from Bangladesh, India and Pakistan, reflecting the time the chef spent travelling the Indian subcontinent.

We skipped starters, but ordered the obligatory poppadums whilst waiting for our food. These were lighter than the usual offering, and certainly gave the impression of being less greasy, and the chutneys, pickle and raita they came with were good.

From our waiter's recommendation, we opted for Chicken Tofa (£6.95), a Goan dish of roasted chicken in a vibrant green sauce. No food colouring in this dish though; the sauce comprises a range of green spices including fresh mint, coriander, green chilli, tamarind and green peppers. This was our favourite, both unusual and exceptionally tasty. We also sampled a Shatkora Gosht (£6.95), in a tangy, medium spicy sauce made with fruit from the Sylher region of Pakistan, although the meat did not quite have the tender, melt in the mouth quality that comes from generous slow cooking. Side orders of Bagun Tomato Jhool (£2.95), whole baby aubergines, pilau rice and peshwari naan, all competently executed, completed our line up.

Other regional specialities that intrigue include Lamb Xacuti (£7.95), another Goan dish prepared with roasted cumin seeds, tamarind, ginger and chilli, Biran Mass Masala (£6.95), a Bangladeshi fish curry spiced with chilli, garlic and coriander, and King Prawn Cornufuli (£9.95), tiger prawns from the Bay of Bengal cooked in butter and garlic with fresh curry leaves and herbs.

The wine list is short and uninspiring, but as with most Indian meals, beer is the drink to wash your food down with. Rounding off our meal with a pistachio kulfi and tea, we reflected that given its range of regional dishes, Clifton offers a good alternative to many of the "McIndian" restaurants, with their standardised and predictable menus, in this area.

- Tracy Yam, 06/2005