Lindsay House has been on my wish list for some time - a combination of Richard Corrigan's reputation as a no-nonsense Michelin-starred chef who draws inspiration from his Irish roots and favours earthy ingredients such as offal, and the charm of an intimate restaurant housed in a converted townhouse in Soho, where admittance is obtained after first ringing the doorbell.

Having now eaten there, far from crossing Lindsay House off that wish list as a "been there, done that" venue, this endearing eaterie has booked itself a permanent place on it. Excellent bread rolls and a host of pretty-as-a-picture amuse bouches (intensely flavoured lobster bisque with chilli, smoked salmon on a disc of crisp soda bread, Parma ham, bresaola topped with half a quail egg and "Caesar salad on a spoon") preceded our choice of the tasting menu (£59/person). This is a whirlwind gallop across the à la carte, allowing the diner to sample smaller portions of a selection of dishes - a true indulgence of the senses through the sheer variety of flavours, aromas, textures and gastronomic eye-candy.

Expect bold and unusual combinations, the use of simple and commonplace ingredients masking the underlying complexity of preparation required to show them off at their best. For example, a couple of batons of spiced carrot were flavoured with star anise, cardamom and coriander, seemingly a lot of effort for what would ordinarily be a garnish or token side vegetable - but in this case, elevating it to a principal and integral part of the dish.

We started with a foie gras and rabbit terrine, with asparagus, artichoke and potato purée, accompanied by an unusual recommendation by Bruno, the head sommelier, of Jurançon "Vroulat" from the mountainous French region bordering Spain (£8.50/glass) - a change from the more common Sauternes pairing.

We switched to a bottle of light and fragrant Viognier (£34) for the following courses: baby squid stuffed with chorizo and feta; seared scallop with pork belly, spiced carrots and carrot purée; venison en croûte with a mushroom duxelle, chestnut purée, red cabbage and new potatoes; cashel blue with pear and celery; blood orange sorbet; and chocolate and chestnut wraps with mascarpone sabayon. The venison was the highlight of the meal, easily one of the best dishes I have ever eaten. The cheese was in perfect condition, making me glad that I didn't have to choose between that and dessert.

Much as the food is less stuffy and overtly showy than other Michelin-starred restaurants, so the service is more informal, friendly and down-to-earth, but also less polished. Our water was never re-filled, and the to-ing and fro-ing of waiters and kitchen staff through the intimate dining rooms was certainly not imperceptible background activity.

But these are minor quibbles, and while a total bill with wine, water and service of £200 is for many the preserve of special occasion dining, I also believe that this represents value for money if you want to sample Richard Corrigan's unique style and some of London's finest cooking.

- Tracy Yam, 4/2004