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Over the years, Covent Garden's renowned Rock Garden has been evolving in terms of its culinary offerings. What was once primarily a rock band venue (30,000 bands have played there over the last 27 years, including U2), is now equally a tourist and foodie's delight.
Rock Garden aims to please everyone - which is not a bad thing in a diverse, high traffic area like Covent Garden. To experience a people watcher's paradise, you can sit outdoors in a handsomely dressed setting, cleverly sheltered from passers-by with clear glass. Inside on the ground floor you will find a sophisticated, yet boisterous dining area (white linens with black leather chairs and gold embellished walls), while the first floor exudes a more edgy vibe (think red walls with wrought iron trimmings). You know the cliché about location, so expect to pay slightly more for your meal - but nothing that will break the bank.
There is a well-proportioned and ethnically inclusive list of starters (£2.95 - £7.50) for carnivores and vegetarians alike. Go Greek with the green and Kalamata olives, Italian with the house antipasti plate (meat or vegetarian version), the Thai fish cakes for a scrumptiously spicy and tangy Asian taste, or the delectably creamy, whipped chicken liver parfait for something á la Français.
Main dishes (£9.95 - £15.00; extras like side salads, vegetables and crusty bread £1.75 - £2.95) are also globally focused. The moules marinaire (steamed mussels) are divine - you will undoubtedly be asking for a spoon to slurp up the aromatic cooking liquor - that is, if you haven't already mopped it up with bread. For meat eaters, the grilled rib eye steak with mushrooms, baby onions and pancetta in red wine jus will certainly please. Crayfish and broadbean risotto, and duck breast with Asian greens and plum and pineapple salsa looked delicious, but for something less adventurous there is always the good ol' American-style beef burger. If lighter fare is more your thing, there are three salads (all £10.95) to choose from: goats cheese on toast with roast pepper sauce and French dressed beetroot (which looked amazing, but a bit small for the price), confit tuna Niçoise or Mediterranean chicken with olives, feta and pine nuts.
To accompany your lunch or dinner, there is an impressive list of red, white and rosé wines ranging from £13.00 - £38.00 per bottle, with most by the glass from £3.30 - £5.75. I would recommend the Chilean Sauvignon Blanc for a warm summer evening. Champagne by the bottle (£35 - £150; top end if celebrating with Louis Roederer Cristal) or glass (£8.00 - £9.00) are available, as are draught and bottled beers, and cocktail favourites like the Bellini and Old Fashioned.
Dessert is also a treat and aptly priced for an upmarket selection (£4.80 - £4.95). The restaurant also helpfully provides dessert wine pairing suggestions for each option. Try the iced passion fruit soufflé or the white and dark chocolate gateaux for a sweet ending to a lovely meal.
Important to note is that Rock Garden is mindful of theatre goers, offering a two- and three-course "express" menu for £9.95 and £11.95. I am told by the eager and obliging wait staff that the meal is served very quickly to accommodate show times. Given that our starters, main courses and desserts were all perfectly timed, I would tend to believe the claim.
After so many years, it's admirable to witness a potentially aging establishment staying fresh and forward thinking, rather than relying solely on their history. At Rock Garden, hungry music lovers will not only be able to visit a rock venue legend, but also happily line their bellies. Bono would be proud.
- Sue Couter, 8/2003
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Covent Garden (PICCADILLY)
